Hirsch, Riesling "Gaisberg", 2015 21225BORCHAMP Adrien Dhondt-Grellet is one of

Adrien Dhondt-Grellet is one of the standard-bearers of the grower Champagne movement

but its distinct agave character will lend a savory

where it holds its shape against vermouth and bitters instead of vanishing

Serve it in a proper wine glass

It’s a robust

Hirsch, Riesling "Gaisberg", 2015 21225BORCHAMP Adrien Dhondt-Grellet is one ofThe Gaisberg is a steep, southwest facing slope of siliceous brown earth over weathered mica schist in the cool Kamptal, and it makes Riesling of laser focus and stony intensity. Johannes Hirsch farms it biodynamically, letting the site speak in a dry, mineral register that has nothing to do with the sweeter German style. This 2015 has moved fully into maturity, its fruit deepening toward candied citrus and gentle petrol while the vineyard's stony